New Crag at Poison Creek

As you turn off the SH into the Queensberry Hills Subdivision there is a crag up to your left (behind new house). It is the obvious outcrop with the large overhang and diagonal crack. Park at the first bend in the road, jump the fence into the Doc Land and follow your nose. Easy access to the top of the crag around to the R.

There is currently only 1 completed route and a few anchors but keen to see some more up there. So get up there with your drills.

The rock is general very good and there is potential for up to 10-15 routes probably. We have only touched the right hand wall so far and there are a bunch of obvious line to develope. The less steep rock has a fair bit of lichen but cleans easily.

Groovy Gecko - Grade 19, Start in the middle of the main R hand wall. Up through small ledges on steep ground and into obvious corner. Stem corner to rings. 7b, double ring anchor.

There are anchors on the short but harder face to the R, Project Ed Liddle.

There are some steeper routes for someone strong and the lefthand cave hasnt been touched.
Lots of bouldering in the area below which Jon Seddon has been exploring.

Poison Creek

Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.

D.I.Y.D.N.A 16
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock

To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:

Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.

Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore

PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06

CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arête keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06

SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05

Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.

Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)

Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .

Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.

Waterfall Creek,

New Route half way between the Neck and Makarora right next to the road. combines well with a session at the Hawea slabs.

(untitled) Bolted, Chains at top. Grade 17 (Bryan Moore)

The route follows a prominent water worn arete to the right of the main waterfall from a small ledge. A more direct start is a project with a possible first pitch from lake level.

enjoy.

The Abyss

Check out this climbers blog about a recent visit to Wanaka. http://www.dreamtimeimages.com/blog/2007/03/31/new-routing-in-wanaka/
Obviously somewhere we all need to visit & it looks like plenty of room for more quality lines. Excellent exploration by WRC Club member Ben Ayres.

Join The Club

Join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. and help support the maintenance and establishment of rock climbing and conservation throughout the Upper Clutha area.

Send details and $25 to:

WRCC, Inc.
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Attn: Treasurer

The Neck at Lake Hawea

This is about a 25min drive from Wanaka. Once you reach the windy section of road before The Neck, keep one eye on the rock to your left and the other on the road. 80m past the steep slabs described in the latest guidebook is a bunch of cruisey new routes all developed in the summer of ‘06. Pull into the obvious grassy bay on your left when heading towards the coast, and park at the base of the routes. You will now be directly under the climbs. Accross the road and down the 4WD track is some great swimminf too.

Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn

STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat

THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr

PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr

PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr