Go to our new location
http://wanakarockclimbingclub.blogspot.com
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Monday, December 28, 2009
Fragile/Protected Tree and Plant Species
Stu Thorn, the local Wanaka DoC bio-diversity specialist, has given me a list of trees/plants in our area that are fragile requiring some special protection. They should not be trampled, cut or otherwise damaged. The plant in the picture is an Olearia fragrantissima.
Olearia hectorii
Olearia fragrantissima
Prumnopitys taxifolia (Matai)
Ischnocarpus novae zelandiae
Olearia fimbriata
Leonohebe cuppressoides
Carmichaelia kirkii (Scrambling Broom)
There is a small garden with some of the endangered species at the local DoC visitor centre in Wanaka. If you are active in the local area, go take a look at the plants to familiarize yourself with their appearance.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
New Climbing Guide and Membership
The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing in Wanaka
is officially on the shelves at your favorite local retailer.
It has approximately 700 climbing routes
plus a new and improved bouldering guide.
It is loaded with good climbing pictures, new topos and easy to use maps and crag information.
Alternatively, join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Send $40 for book and membership plus $2.50 for postage and handling to:
Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Don't forget your contact details and address so that we can post the book to you.
Support the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club. All proceeds support climbing and conservation in the Wanaka region.
is officially on the shelves at your favorite local retailer.
It has approximately 700 climbing routes
plus a new and improved bouldering guide.
It is loaded with good climbing pictures, new topos and easy to use maps and crag information.
Alternatively, join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Send $40 for book and membership plus $2.50 for postage and handling to:
Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Don't forget your contact details and address so that we can post the book to you.
Support the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club. All proceeds support climbing and conservation in the Wanaka region.
General Meeting 11 December, 2009
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
General Meeting
11 December 2009
Attendance: Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Glen Einam, Ken Super, Sean O’Connor, David Bunn, Jon Sedon, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick, Lionell Clay, James, Libby Paulin
Apologies: Nia O’Connor, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Minutes of previous general meeting: read and approved
Subscriptions 2009 – 2010 financial year: Greg Johnston, Sean O’Connor, Nia O’Connor (student), Ken Super, Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Liam Paulin (student), Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon, David Bunn, James
Old Business:
Access Issues – Kai Whaka Pai has new stile and sign. Glendhu Station would not consider fencing until after their envionment court hearing regarding their golf course at Parkins Bay
New Business:
- Access Issues
Motatapu Crag is closed until further notice because of its proximity within a deer farm.
- New Guidebook
Cost – production and printing cost approximately $8500 for 1000 books
Price – $20 (moved and agreed)
- DoC Management Agreement:
Discussed Meetings and Correspondence with DoC and Matukituki Operational Plan
Discussed WRCC Health and Safety Plan as per DoC request
Most people in attendance were very concerned about signing any agreement that might have legal teeth since the vast majority of the climbing community are not part of WRCC. The issue was tabled.
Discussed WRCC Bolting Standard and the need to update the information
- Blogspot
Discussed the status of blog. It was moved and agreed to remove most of the route information with the exception of some route descriptions in the crags less travelled section of the new guide. Need to discuss with Jerry Murray-Orr the admin status
- Meeting adjourned
General Meeting
11 December 2009
Attendance: Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Glen Einam, Ken Super, Sean O’Connor, David Bunn, Jon Sedon, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick, Lionell Clay, James, Libby Paulin
Apologies: Nia O’Connor, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Minutes of previous general meeting: read and approved
Subscriptions 2009 – 2010 financial year: Greg Johnston, Sean O’Connor, Nia O’Connor (student), Ken Super, Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Liam Paulin (student), Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon, David Bunn, James
Old Business:
Access Issues – Kai Whaka Pai has new stile and sign. Glendhu Station would not consider fencing until after their envionment court hearing regarding their golf course at Parkins Bay
New Business:
- Access Issues
Motatapu Crag is closed until further notice because of its proximity within a deer farm.
- New Guidebook
Cost – production and printing cost approximately $8500 for 1000 books
Price – $20 (moved and agreed)
- DoC Management Agreement:
Discussed Meetings and Correspondence with DoC and Matukituki Operational Plan
Discussed WRCC Health and Safety Plan as per DoC request
Most people in attendance were very concerned about signing any agreement that might have legal teeth since the vast majority of the climbing community are not part of WRCC. The issue was tabled.
Discussed WRCC Bolting Standard and the need to update the information
- Blogspot
Discussed the status of blog. It was moved and agreed to remove most of the route information with the exception of some route descriptions in the crags less travelled section of the new guide. Need to discuss with Jerry Murray-Orr the admin status
- Meeting adjourned
Annual General Meeting 11 December, 2009
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Annual General Meeting
11 December 2009
Welcome and Introductions:
Attendance: Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Glen Einam, Ken Super, Sean O’Connor, David Bunn, Jon Sedon, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick
Apologies: Nia O’Connor, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Minutes of previous AGM: accepted as true and accurate
Presidents Report:
• Club is financially healthy but membership is stagnant and likely dwindling
• Projects
o Cutting mostly re-bolted
o Cattle Yard mostly re-bolted
o Many tracks marked and maintained
o A number of other individual routes fixed up
• Much hardware distributed to members, currently club mostly out of hardware
• Club submission on Mt Aspiring National Park Plan
• Working with DoC on a management agreement
• New guidebook is finished and currently being printed
• Acknowledge support of all club members and others in the climbing community that have helped.
Treasure’s Report: financials accepted as true and accurate
• 17 Subscriptions totalling $450 down from 24 subs down from 35 subs
• Guidebook sales were nearly $5,000. Old guides are now being discounted.
• Still carrying about 80 guides valued at $10 each
• Other revenue came from member contributions and advertising
• Small amount of expenses from last AGM and expense reimbursements
• Total surplus income less expenses was $6904.48
• At the end of the financial year the bank account was at $7315.48
• We have some miscellaneous hardware totalling about $250 consisting mostly of ring hangers.
• At the end of the financial year the accounts receivable was $1675 due to invoicing.
• Net assets are $6690.48
Elections:
President – Greg Johnston
Secretary – Anna Simmonds
Treasurer – Ken Super
Access – Nick Cradock
Bolts/Equipment – Greg Johnston
Social – Jon Sedon
Committee – Glen Einam, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Next AGM date: Mid December 2010
Meeting adjourned
Annual General Meeting
11 December 2009
Welcome and Introductions:
Attendance: Teddy Oram, Zdenek Racuk, Glen Einam, Ken Super, Sean O’Connor, David Bunn, Jon Sedon, Anna Simmonds, Scott Standen, Bruce Dowrick
Apologies: Nia O’Connor, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Minutes of previous AGM: accepted as true and accurate
Presidents Report:
• Club is financially healthy but membership is stagnant and likely dwindling
• Projects
o Cutting mostly re-bolted
o Cattle Yard mostly re-bolted
o Many tracks marked and maintained
o A number of other individual routes fixed up
• Much hardware distributed to members, currently club mostly out of hardware
• Club submission on Mt Aspiring National Park Plan
• Working with DoC on a management agreement
• New guidebook is finished and currently being printed
• Acknowledge support of all club members and others in the climbing community that have helped.
Treasure’s Report: financials accepted as true and accurate
• 17 Subscriptions totalling $450 down from 24 subs down from 35 subs
• Guidebook sales were nearly $5,000. Old guides are now being discounted.
• Still carrying about 80 guides valued at $10 each
• Other revenue came from member contributions and advertising
• Small amount of expenses from last AGM and expense reimbursements
• Total surplus income less expenses was $6904.48
• At the end of the financial year the bank account was at $7315.48
• We have some miscellaneous hardware totalling about $250 consisting mostly of ring hangers.
• At the end of the financial year the accounts receivable was $1675 due to invoicing.
• Net assets are $6690.48
Elections:
President – Greg Johnston
Secretary – Anna Simmonds
Treasurer – Ken Super
Access – Nick Cradock
Bolts/Equipment – Greg Johnston
Social – Jon Sedon
Committee – Glen Einam, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball
Next AGM date: Mid December 2010
Meeting adjourned
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Meeting Minutes and Outcome of DoC Meeting
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club Inc and
Department of Conservation, Wanaka Area Office Meeting
18th March 2008
MINUTES
In Attendance:
Wanaka Rock Club - Greg Johnston, Guy Cotter, Nick Craddock, Glenn Einam and Jessica Eyers, DOC - Paul Hellebrekers and Annette Smith.
Pre-meeting
The department accepts the written submission from Wanaka Rock Climbing Club and will address the contents in the agenda. The department acknowledges that rock climbing is an established and legitimate recreational pursuit in the area.
1. Welcome & previous minutes – no issues raised.
2. Matukituki Operation Plan -
Paul gave the group an overview of the new operational plan which represents the Otago Conservancy policy guide for staff undertaking management decisions in relation to Ngai Tahu values within the Hospital Flat & Diamond Lake Conservation Areas. The group was given part copy of the plan specific to rock climbing activity and the implications to the club were discussed. It was noted that an issue should only occur if a burial or other culturally significant feature is found.
Action: Annette to forward Greg full copy of Matukituki Operational Plan.
3. The establishment of new Climbing Sites
The group agreed that the definition of a ‘new climbing site’ was covered adequately in the minutes from the Oct 2005 meeting, that being:
‘A new site was seen as place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that’s between 2 existing routes (within a reasonable/practical distance) was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.’
The process to obtain approval for new sites was discussed. Initially, the club is to write to DOC, by letter or email, giving location and details of proposal. Paul outlined his responsibilities in regards to then inspecting the site and consulting with Ngai Tahu before a decision can be made. It is anticipated that the process will be relatively straightforward unless there are significant conservation and/or culture values in the specific area/site.
It was acknowledge that the club has limited control in enforcing this process on non-members.
Action: Annette to provide overview map showing main rocking climbing areas.
Action: Greg to mark existing crags/ routes and proposed crags on maps provided and return to DOC by 18th April 2009.
Action: Paul to advise NZAC of the process for establishing new rocking climbing sites.
Action: The club is to ensure that the new Wanaka Rock guide book explains process and that map showing boundaries of conservation lands used for rock climbing is included. Doc to provide detail for the new book as required.
4. Access Paths – marking and maintenance.
Paul asked that entrance to rock climbing areas off the Diamond Lake track not be emphasized - Simple rock cairns to be used rather than signage unless issues arise. The department could provide markers and signage to assist the club in marking main entrance points and site access track within the Hospital Flat Conservation Area.
Paul requested that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites.
Action: Paul to arrange meeting with club members to assess placement of track markers and track maintenance requirements. (Confirmed for 30th March @ 9am)
5. Bolting standards
Bolting guidelines from NZAC and draft Mt Cook/ Westland National Parks policy were tabled.
Greg showed examples of galvanized and stainless steel bolts used in the local rock climbing areas. He stated that bolting by club members was to a high standard and that they were pro-active in replacing the older style bolts. The club is working under the umbrella of the NZAC bolting guidelines although specific to the rock type in this area.
All parties agreed that the NZAC Bolting Policy of 2005 still applies.
Guy raised the point that educational institutes and non-members using the facilities provided by the club did not contribute financially.
6. Dogs in rock climbing areas
Annette stated that dogs were permitted on Hospital Flat, Mt Iron, Roadside and Riverside conservation lands. However, dogs were not permitted in Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The Club to raise the issue of dogs in the Hospital Flat area with their members to establish whether is it suitable to have dogs on site while climbing.
Action: Paul to arrange DOC No Dog sign on the eastern boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
7. Fencing of Eastern Boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The boundary line was discussed with members as there were concerns that they were encroaching on private property to reach some of the rock climbing sites.
Action: Paul to check surveyed peg line and contact John McRae regarding dogs and public access across the paddock. Paul to report findings back to club.
8. DOC’s 2009/10 proposed work programme
Paul advised the group that a circuit track around Diamond Lake was to be developed this winter. No other works planned near the rock climbing areas.
9. Establishment of new climbing resources in Mt Iron Scenic Reserve
The club expressed an interest to further develop rock climbing within the Mt Iron Scenic Reserve. Paul stated that DOC’s view had not changed in regards to Mt Iron crags being extended to above the walking track on the eastern side. The current rock climbing crags below the track had some minor issues, ie impact on local residents, however rock climbing to be continued. Mt Iron’s main focus of activity is the 60,000 plus walkers using the area. Guy felt that additional sites should be addressed as the current limited area does not attract climbers. Nick commented that the loose rock on Mt Iron could be an issue.
Group agreed to park this issue until matters in other rock climbing areas have been addressed.
Action: Paul to erect a sign on the walking track above the rock climbing area advising the public not to throw rocks over the edge.
10. General items
Pest Control – Glenn commented that possum numbers had increased substantially in the rock climbing areas. Paul advised that no pest control programmes planned for these areas.
Motatapu River 4WD – Paul advised group that he had received feedback that rock climbers were accessing rock climbing areas – Lost World/ Dummyside – by 4WD through private property from the Motatapu River. Group stated that this was a low use area by members.
Camping – Freedom camping near rock climbing areas – especially Riverside – has continued to be an issue. Paul advised group that adjoining landowners were very concerned due to the fire risk. Members to be mindful and move campers on if sighted.
Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) - Club to consider MOU with DOC for clear guidelines to be established.
Action: Club to advise by 18 April 2009 if they require a draft to be drawn up to consider.
Department of Conservation, Wanaka Area Office Meeting
18th March 2008
MINUTES
In Attendance:
Wanaka Rock Club - Greg Johnston, Guy Cotter, Nick Craddock, Glenn Einam and Jessica Eyers, DOC - Paul Hellebrekers and Annette Smith.
Pre-meeting
The department accepts the written submission from Wanaka Rock Climbing Club and will address the contents in the agenda. The department acknowledges that rock climbing is an established and legitimate recreational pursuit in the area.
1. Welcome & previous minutes – no issues raised.
2. Matukituki Operation Plan -
Paul gave the group an overview of the new operational plan which represents the Otago Conservancy policy guide for staff undertaking management decisions in relation to Ngai Tahu values within the Hospital Flat & Diamond Lake Conservation Areas. The group was given part copy of the plan specific to rock climbing activity and the implications to the club were discussed. It was noted that an issue should only occur if a burial or other culturally significant feature is found.
Action: Annette to forward Greg full copy of Matukituki Operational Plan.
3. The establishment of new Climbing Sites
The group agreed that the definition of a ‘new climbing site’ was covered adequately in the minutes from the Oct 2005 meeting, that being:
‘A new site was seen as place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that’s between 2 existing routes (within a reasonable/practical distance) was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.’
The process to obtain approval for new sites was discussed. Initially, the club is to write to DOC, by letter or email, giving location and details of proposal. Paul outlined his responsibilities in regards to then inspecting the site and consulting with Ngai Tahu before a decision can be made. It is anticipated that the process will be relatively straightforward unless there are significant conservation and/or culture values in the specific area/site.
It was acknowledge that the club has limited control in enforcing this process on non-members.
Action: Annette to provide overview map showing main rocking climbing areas.
Action: Greg to mark existing crags/ routes and proposed crags on maps provided and return to DOC by 18th April 2009.
Action: Paul to advise NZAC of the process for establishing new rocking climbing sites.
Action: The club is to ensure that the new Wanaka Rock guide book explains process and that map showing boundaries of conservation lands used for rock climbing is included. Doc to provide detail for the new book as required.
4. Access Paths – marking and maintenance.
Paul asked that entrance to rock climbing areas off the Diamond Lake track not be emphasized - Simple rock cairns to be used rather than signage unless issues arise. The department could provide markers and signage to assist the club in marking main entrance points and site access track within the Hospital Flat Conservation Area.
Paul requested that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites.
Action: Paul to arrange meeting with club members to assess placement of track markers and track maintenance requirements. (Confirmed for 30th March @ 9am)
5. Bolting standards
Bolting guidelines from NZAC and draft Mt Cook/ Westland National Parks policy were tabled.
Greg showed examples of galvanized and stainless steel bolts used in the local rock climbing areas. He stated that bolting by club members was to a high standard and that they were pro-active in replacing the older style bolts. The club is working under the umbrella of the NZAC bolting guidelines although specific to the rock type in this area.
All parties agreed that the NZAC Bolting Policy of 2005 still applies.
Guy raised the point that educational institutes and non-members using the facilities provided by the club did not contribute financially.
6. Dogs in rock climbing areas
Annette stated that dogs were permitted on Hospital Flat, Mt Iron, Roadside and Riverside conservation lands. However, dogs were not permitted in Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The Club to raise the issue of dogs in the Hospital Flat area with their members to establish whether is it suitable to have dogs on site while climbing.
Action: Paul to arrange DOC No Dog sign on the eastern boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
7. Fencing of Eastern Boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The boundary line was discussed with members as there were concerns that they were encroaching on private property to reach some of the rock climbing sites.
Action: Paul to check surveyed peg line and contact John McRae regarding dogs and public access across the paddock. Paul to report findings back to club.
8. DOC’s 2009/10 proposed work programme
Paul advised the group that a circuit track around Diamond Lake was to be developed this winter. No other works planned near the rock climbing areas.
9. Establishment of new climbing resources in Mt Iron Scenic Reserve
The club expressed an interest to further develop rock climbing within the Mt Iron Scenic Reserve. Paul stated that DOC’s view had not changed in regards to Mt Iron crags being extended to above the walking track on the eastern side. The current rock climbing crags below the track had some minor issues, ie impact on local residents, however rock climbing to be continued. Mt Iron’s main focus of activity is the 60,000 plus walkers using the area. Guy felt that additional sites should be addressed as the current limited area does not attract climbers. Nick commented that the loose rock on Mt Iron could be an issue.
Group agreed to park this issue until matters in other rock climbing areas have been addressed.
Action: Paul to erect a sign on the walking track above the rock climbing area advising the public not to throw rocks over the edge.
10. General items
Pest Control – Glenn commented that possum numbers had increased substantially in the rock climbing areas. Paul advised that no pest control programmes planned for these areas.
Motatapu River 4WD – Paul advised group that he had received feedback that rock climbers were accessing rock climbing areas – Lost World/ Dummyside – by 4WD through private property from the Motatapu River. Group stated that this was a low use area by members.
Camping – Freedom camping near rock climbing areas – especially Riverside – has continued to be an issue. Paul advised group that adjoining landowners were very concerned due to the fire risk. Members to be mindful and move campers on if sighted.
Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) - Club to consider MOU with DOC for clear guidelines to be established.
Action: Club to advise by 18 April 2009 if they require a draft to be drawn up to consider.
Monday, December 15, 2008
WRCC AGM 9 Dec 08
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc
AGM 2008
9th Dec 2008
Attendance: Greg Johnston, Jerry Murray-Orr, Ken Super, Murray Ball, Scott Standen, Rich Tribe, Ben Eyers, Jessica Eyers, Russell Braddock, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick. Svenja Stellfeld
Apologies: John Hammond, Ian McNab, Shawn & Nia O'Connor,
Minutes from last AGM: Minutes of ’07 AGM were vaporized and therefore not read and approved but financials were ratified.
Elections: John Hammond resigned as treasurer, Greg Johnston to carry on as President, Jessica E to carry on as secretary, Ken elected to be treasurer.
Treasurer's report:
Financial report is for Oct 2007 – Sept 2008. Given out guide books to Good Sports and Mainly Tramping but still in receivables. (acc receivable about $5000). Mainly Tramping returned 60 guide books as they are selling to slowly. $625 in subs for 2007-2008 (24 members) $1300 in guidebooks. Bolt fund: more than $1000. Gross imcome $3000. $4000 in expenses – Alpine Club and Outsider for gear (hardware), and some costs associated with last year's AGM. Still lots of 12mm bolts – should be mainly used for rebolting the Cutting. Current assets = $2000 in bank, $5000 in guidebooks, hardware $800.
Old business:
Last year's general meeting minutes read and approved.
Approximately 320 guidebooks in stock including returns. Jerry mentioned Elements might need more guidebooks.
All agreed to reduce the guide from $20 to $15. All new members may have a free guidebook. It is the time to shift books this summer. Possible to further reduce guide to cost or below. We will aim to get the highest margin possible to sell all books.
Rich suggested selling on trademe. Go on then Rich.
Access:
Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai Areas - signage in place and track marked. Jerry will install stiles.
Highside area loop track is marked but needs additional maintenance.
All crag trail heads are marked.
A number of climbers are taking dogs into Kai Pai area. Dogs are not allowed in this area because it is farm land. Signs are clearly posted. Please do not jeopardize climbing access by bringing your dog/s into this area. Dogs are allowed in DOC recreation reserves but they are not allowed in DOC conservation reserves (Diamond Lake).
Greg suggested that John McRae, DOC and club discuss fencing between private property and DOC property.
Jerry will ask DOC to write the club a letter regarding their position on fencing off the area. Svenja had previously offered to facilitate raising trust and lottery money for this purpose. Could be funding from Central Lakes Trust for this (conservation).
New business:
Scott Standen volunteered to produce the new guide book. He will send out a proposed layout by Janurary 31 st. Jerry will provide Scott with data from old book.
It is agreed the new guide should be printed by the beginning of October. Scott and Anna are keen.
Bruce to research various printing options
Book Ideas:
Need clearer pictures with clearer better topo lines.
Icons to describe climbing cliffs (sun/shade, summer/winter, bolts/natural, etc.)
Need feedback on stars, grades, etc.
Consolidate and condesnse some areas
Loads of advertising – good to help pay for guide, needs extra space in book. Murray is keen to help
Need more good climbing shots – All to try to take and send in photos
Needs to be stitched and bound – Bruce to research options
Queenstown guidebook and Alpine club guidebook are good examples. $40 is ok but max.
Add Tombstone area to bouldering section.
Examples of good guides – rock fax, blue mountains, boulder
Other new business:
Working bee at Cutting – Saturday 31, January. Meeting, eating and drinking afterwards.
Greg Johnston and Glen Einam are project managers.
Tasks to be completed:
- Replace and/or Fix up Anchors
- Remove existing dyna-bolts, over drill same hole and re-place with 12mm stainless bolts and hangers
-Extend track from Cutting to Falcon Steep
-Add D12 Staples to access areas
The new bolts on Critic’s Choice were chopped, again, by Allen Uren and company. The original route was very, very dirty and rarely climbed. It was certainly not the gem it is today. Additionally, the anchor was very low on the route at about ¼ height of the cliff leaving nearly 75% more cliff and new climbing above the old route. Some feel Allen should spend his time properly cleaning his own routes in the crack house. The group vigorously debated the subject and came to a general consensus that it should be left as a natural line because it is a crack and more bolting followed by more chopping will only make the conservation of rock more difficult
Svenja to chase previous and new members for subs.
Paid Subs:
Ken Super
Jerry Murray-Orr
Greg Johnston
Anna Simmonds
Scott Standon
Bruce Dowrick
Svenja
Russell
Jon Sedon
Ben Eyers
Jessica Eyers
AGM 2008
9th Dec 2008
Attendance: Greg Johnston, Jerry Murray-Orr, Ken Super, Murray Ball, Scott Standen, Rich Tribe, Ben Eyers, Jessica Eyers, Russell Braddock, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick. Svenja Stellfeld
Apologies: John Hammond, Ian McNab, Shawn & Nia O'Connor,
Minutes from last AGM: Minutes of ’07 AGM were vaporized and therefore not read and approved but financials were ratified.
Elections: John Hammond resigned as treasurer, Greg Johnston to carry on as President, Jessica E to carry on as secretary, Ken elected to be treasurer.
Treasurer's report:
Financial report is for Oct 2007 – Sept 2008. Given out guide books to Good Sports and Mainly Tramping but still in receivables. (acc receivable about $5000). Mainly Tramping returned 60 guide books as they are selling to slowly. $625 in subs for 2007-2008 (24 members) $1300 in guidebooks. Bolt fund: more than $1000. Gross imcome $3000. $4000 in expenses – Alpine Club and Outsider for gear (hardware), and some costs associated with last year's AGM. Still lots of 12mm bolts – should be mainly used for rebolting the Cutting. Current assets = $2000 in bank, $5000 in guidebooks, hardware $800.
Old business:
Last year's general meeting minutes read and approved.
Approximately 320 guidebooks in stock including returns. Jerry mentioned Elements might need more guidebooks.
All agreed to reduce the guide from $20 to $15. All new members may have a free guidebook. It is the time to shift books this summer. Possible to further reduce guide to cost or below. We will aim to get the highest margin possible to sell all books.
Rich suggested selling on trademe. Go on then Rich.
Access:
Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai Areas - signage in place and track marked. Jerry will install stiles.
Highside area loop track is marked but needs additional maintenance.
All crag trail heads are marked.
A number of climbers are taking dogs into Kai Pai area. Dogs are not allowed in this area because it is farm land. Signs are clearly posted. Please do not jeopardize climbing access by bringing your dog/s into this area. Dogs are allowed in DOC recreation reserves but they are not allowed in DOC conservation reserves (Diamond Lake).
Greg suggested that John McRae, DOC and club discuss fencing between private property and DOC property.
Jerry will ask DOC to write the club a letter regarding their position on fencing off the area. Svenja had previously offered to facilitate raising trust and lottery money for this purpose. Could be funding from Central Lakes Trust for this (conservation).
New business:
Scott Standen volunteered to produce the new guide book. He will send out a proposed layout by Janurary 31 st. Jerry will provide Scott with data from old book.
It is agreed the new guide should be printed by the beginning of October. Scott and Anna are keen.
Bruce to research various printing options
Book Ideas:
Need clearer pictures with clearer better topo lines.
Icons to describe climbing cliffs (sun/shade, summer/winter, bolts/natural, etc.)
Need feedback on stars, grades, etc.
Consolidate and condesnse some areas
Loads of advertising – good to help pay for guide, needs extra space in book. Murray is keen to help
Need more good climbing shots – All to try to take and send in photos
Needs to be stitched and bound – Bruce to research options
Queenstown guidebook and Alpine club guidebook are good examples. $40 is ok but max.
Add Tombstone area to bouldering section.
Examples of good guides – rock fax, blue mountains, boulder
Other new business:
Working bee at Cutting – Saturday 31, January. Meeting, eating and drinking afterwards.
Greg Johnston and Glen Einam are project managers.
Tasks to be completed:
- Replace and/or Fix up Anchors
- Remove existing dyna-bolts, over drill same hole and re-place with 12mm stainless bolts and hangers
-Extend track from Cutting to Falcon Steep
-Add D12 Staples to access areas
The new bolts on Critic’s Choice were chopped, again, by Allen Uren and company. The original route was very, very dirty and rarely climbed. It was certainly not the gem it is today. Additionally, the anchor was very low on the route at about ¼ height of the cliff leaving nearly 75% more cliff and new climbing above the old route. Some feel Allen should spend his time properly cleaning his own routes in the crack house. The group vigorously debated the subject and came to a general consensus that it should be left as a natural line because it is a crack and more bolting followed by more chopping will only make the conservation of rock more difficult
Svenja to chase previous and new members for subs.
Paid Subs:
Ken Super
Jerry Murray-Orr
Greg Johnston
Anna Simmonds
Scott Standon
Bruce Dowrick
Svenja
Russell
Jon Sedon
Ben Eyers
Jessica Eyers
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Annual General Meeting 2008
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Annual General Meeting
Tuesday 9 December, 2008 6:30 pm
Alberttown Tavern Meeting Room
Subs: $15 Students, $25 Adults - Members can buy a climbing guide from the club for an additional $20
A general meeting will follow the AGM to discuss outdoor climbing management, resource conservation and the proposed new guidebook.
Annual General Meeting
Tuesday 9 December, 2008 6:30 pm
Alberttown Tavern Meeting Room
Subs: $15 Students, $25 Adults - Members can buy a climbing guide from the club for an additional $20
A general meeting will follow the AGM to discuss outdoor climbing management, resource conservation and the proposed new guidebook.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
DIY Rock Climbing
Keen on new routing? Here are a few simple tips for the DIY Rock Climber.
1. Be sure access to your new route is easy. This task may require a bit of landscaping like digging a flat platform for belays, trimming trees or cutting tracks.
2. Clean your route. With a good brush, sweep the whole rock surface a meters width on both sides of your selected climbing line. Then, micro clean the hand and foot holds with chalk and a toothbrush. Don't forget to clean extra good all around the holds. A blow tube helps get rid of dust on holds and pockets.
3. Next, top rope your intended line to learn where the bolts should be drilled. A good bolt placement will be easy to clip on lead and the quick draw will sit nicely on the rock without abrasion and without side loading the caribeaners.
4. With all that work complete, drilling the bolts is the easy part. Or is it? Remember the following points when drilling bolts.
- Make sure the rock is good and solid. Avoid flakes, cracks and detached blocks by 200 millimeters.
- Create a flat surface for the bolt hanger to sit against the rock.
- Drill the bolt hole perpendicular to the rock. Check for 90 degree right angles on both the vertical and horizontal planes.
- Over drill the hole so that it can be pounded into the rock and out of site if it is in the wrong place.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Access Issue: Icehouse, Bakehouse, Kai Whaka Pai
Access to all crags on North side of Mt. Aspiring Road to include Icehouse, Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai is through private property. Although the crags themselves are either in recreation reserves or in areas with DOC conservation covenants, the access route to crags is through the farmer's paddock which is private property.
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc., is requesting all climbers to respect the traditional private property rights of the farmer. Access is a privilege, don't stuff it up.
- No Dogs. This is rule #1. There is stock in the paddocks year round.
- During lambing season, stay out of the paddock. See rule #1.
- Always use the public toilet at Main Cliff.
- Stick to the track that contours the edge of the cliffs.
- When in doubt, stay out. The paddock is private property. Respect the farmer's rights when the paddock is filled with animals.
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc., is requesting all climbers to respect the traditional private property rights of the farmer. Access is a privilege, don't stuff it up.
- No Dogs. This is rule #1. There is stock in the paddocks year round.
- During lambing season, stay out of the paddock. See rule #1.
- Always use the public toilet at Main Cliff.
- Stick to the track that contours the edge of the cliffs.
- When in doubt, stay out. The paddock is private property. Respect the farmer's rights when the paddock is filled with animals.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
WRCC General Meeting 11 Feb 2008
Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
General Meeting
February 11 2008
Attendance: Greg Johnston, Matt Squires, Callum Urquhart, Anna Simmons, John Hammond, Scott Standen, Sean O’Connor, Ben Eyers, Jessica Winter, Ken Super, Jenny Rayment, Anthony Davidson, Jeromy Wilson, Stu Blennerhasset, Dave Cassaidy, Pat Deavoll, Henry
Apologies: Jon Sedon, Ian McNabb, Toby Johnston
General Business:
- New member Stu Blennerhasset of Basecamp discussed discounts for associated members. Also, he offered continued support for the club in the following areas: advocacy, storage locker, gear support (waratahs, stiles, etc.) and fundraising box. He mentioned there would be sport-climbing competitions in the near future.
- Discussed climbing areas that WRCC would support with gear contribution. Cromwell Gorge was approved and recommended to be put into future Wanaka guide. The greater Wye Creek area was discussed and it was decided that it is not in the Wanaka Catchment area and really fits into Wakatipu/Queenstown Climbing Club. Therefore, we discussed the possibilities of a coop situation where we would support their members to put up new routes in Wanaka if they would support our members with similar gear contribution support.
- A top priority issue was discussed concerning climbing areas from Bake House/Family Crag area and to Kai Whaka Pai. Landowner John McRae was invited to speak to our members but did not attend the meeting. John has been recently upset with climbers disregard for farming operations. Two specific examples are dogs in the paddocks with stock present including lambs and climbers arguing with the farmer about their rights to be there because the crags are in the guidebook. It was decided that WRCC must take a proactive stance with the farmer and DOC. The club agreed that we need the following: 1. Stiles placed over fences. It was suggested we might acquire them from DOC. 2. Signage at the area entrance that indicates private property, no dogs allowed, etc. 3. The track through to Kai Whaka Pai should be marked with waratahs. WRCC will need to consult with DOC and farmer related to these issues.
- Discussed putting signs at Mt. Iron climbing areas requesting climbers to avoid loud profanities. John Hammond taking the lead to get the project done.
-Idea to have a select guide that is less expensive.
-Idea to have an Internet guide where people can download a select amount of routes for a certain amount of money.
-Club is pleased new the new DOC toilets at Hospital Flat and Riverside. Thanks to Ian McNabb for fixing up toilet at Roadside.
General Meeting
February 11 2008
Attendance: Greg Johnston, Matt Squires, Callum Urquhart, Anna Simmons, John Hammond, Scott Standen, Sean O’Connor, Ben Eyers, Jessica Winter, Ken Super, Jenny Rayment, Anthony Davidson, Jeromy Wilson, Stu Blennerhasset, Dave Cassaidy, Pat Deavoll, Henry
Apologies: Jon Sedon, Ian McNabb, Toby Johnston
General Business:
- New member Stu Blennerhasset of Basecamp discussed discounts for associated members. Also, he offered continued support for the club in the following areas: advocacy, storage locker, gear support (waratahs, stiles, etc.) and fundraising box. He mentioned there would be sport-climbing competitions in the near future.
- Discussed climbing areas that WRCC would support with gear contribution. Cromwell Gorge was approved and recommended to be put into future Wanaka guide. The greater Wye Creek area was discussed and it was decided that it is not in the Wanaka Catchment area and really fits into Wakatipu/Queenstown Climbing Club. Therefore, we discussed the possibilities of a coop situation where we would support their members to put up new routes in Wanaka if they would support our members with similar gear contribution support.
- A top priority issue was discussed concerning climbing areas from Bake House/Family Crag area and to Kai Whaka Pai. Landowner John McRae was invited to speak to our members but did not attend the meeting. John has been recently upset with climbers disregard for farming operations. Two specific examples are dogs in the paddocks with stock present including lambs and climbers arguing with the farmer about their rights to be there because the crags are in the guidebook. It was decided that WRCC must take a proactive stance with the farmer and DOC. The club agreed that we need the following: 1. Stiles placed over fences. It was suggested we might acquire them from DOC. 2. Signage at the area entrance that indicates private property, no dogs allowed, etc. 3. The track through to Kai Whaka Pai should be marked with waratahs. WRCC will need to consult with DOC and farmer related to these issues.
- Discussed putting signs at Mt. Iron climbing areas requesting climbers to avoid loud profanities. John Hammond taking the lead to get the project done.
-Idea to have a select guide that is less expensive.
-Idea to have an Internet guide where people can download a select amount of routes for a certain amount of money.
-Club is pleased new the new DOC toilets at Hospital Flat and Riverside. Thanks to Ian McNabb for fixing up toilet at Roadside.
Sunday, February 10, 2008
AGM President/Treasurers Report
Presidents Report:
- The distribution of guides is going well. We have approximately 375 books left out of 1000. We are selling approximately 250 books per year. It is critically important that we get through those books before introducing a new guide so to that we can finance the next printing. We will need to start considering the next guide but at our current rate of sell, it looks like we won’t need the new guide until the summer of 2010.
- Membership is well up from last year due to an amazing effort from Susie Meyer who went out of her way to call, cajole and coerce membership - job well done Susie.
- Jerry Murray-Orr and Simon Middlemass started up the clubs first Web Blog, which seems to be going pretty well. We will need to discuss the future direction of this site.
- Crag activity has been good with a number of members doing some good work to include: new routing, re-bolting projects, crag and track maintenance.
- The club has done a good job keeping up with demand for hardware and the club drill is in good working order.
Treasurers Report:
- Membership went from 18 to 35 members bringing in nearly $1000
- Income was just over $6,000, which included subscriptions, guide and hardware revenue.
- Expenditure was nearly $3000, spent mostly on hardware
- The distribution of guides is going well. We have approximately 375 books left out of 1000. We are selling approximately 250 books per year. It is critically important that we get through those books before introducing a new guide so to that we can finance the next printing. We will need to start considering the next guide but at our current rate of sell, it looks like we won’t need the new guide until the summer of 2010.
- Membership is well up from last year due to an amazing effort from Susie Meyer who went out of her way to call, cajole and coerce membership - job well done Susie.
- Jerry Murray-Orr and Simon Middlemass started up the clubs first Web Blog, which seems to be going pretty well. We will need to discuss the future direction of this site.
- Crag activity has been good with a number of members doing some good work to include: new routing, re-bolting projects, crag and track maintenance.
- The club has done a good job keeping up with demand for hardware and the club drill is in good working order.
Treasurers Report:
- Membership went from 18 to 35 members bringing in nearly $1000
- Income was just over $6,000, which included subscriptions, guide and hardware revenue.
- Expenditure was nearly $3000, spent mostly on hardware
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Annual General Meeting
The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. AGM for 2006/2007 year is 7:00 PM, Monday 11 February, 2008. The meeting is at the Alberttown Tavern in the conservatory. Subscription for adults is $25, students $15. All Welcome.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
New Crag at Poison Creek
As you turn off the SH into the Queensberry Hills Subdivision there is a crag up to your left (behind new house). It is the obvious outcrop with the large overhang and diagonal crack. Park at the first bend in the road, jump the fence into the Doc Land and follow your nose. Easy access to the top of the crag around to the R.
There is currently only 1 completed route and a few anchors but keen to see some more up there. So get up there with your drills.
The rock is general very good and there is potential for up to 10-15 routes probably. We have only touched the right hand wall so far and there are a bunch of obvious line to develope. The less steep rock has a fair bit of lichen but cleans easily.
Groovy Gecko - Grade 19, Start in the middle of the main R hand wall. Up through small ledges on steep ground and into obvious corner. Stem corner to rings. 7b, double ring anchor.
There are anchors on the short but harder face to the R, Project Ed Liddle.
There are some steeper routes for someone strong and the lefthand cave hasnt been touched.
Lots of bouldering in the area below which Jon Seddon has been exploring.
There is currently only 1 completed route and a few anchors but keen to see some more up there. So get up there with your drills.
The rock is general very good and there is potential for up to 10-15 routes probably. We have only touched the right hand wall so far and there are a bunch of obvious line to develope. The less steep rock has a fair bit of lichen but cleans easily.
Groovy Gecko - Grade 19, Start in the middle of the main R hand wall. Up through small ledges on steep ground and into obvious corner. Stem corner to rings. 7b, double ring anchor.
There are anchors on the short but harder face to the R, Project Ed Liddle.
There are some steeper routes for someone strong and the lefthand cave hasnt been touched.
Lots of bouldering in the area below which Jon Seddon has been exploring.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Poison Creek
Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.
D.I.Y.D.N.A 16
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05
SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05
PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock
To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:
Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.
Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore
PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06
CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arête keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06
SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05
Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.
Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)
Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .
Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Waterfall Creek,
New Route half way between the Neck and Makarora right next to the road. combines well with a session at the Hawea slabs.
(untitled) Bolted, Chains at top. Grade 17 (Bryan Moore)
The route follows a prominent water worn arete to the right of the main waterfall from a small ledge. A more direct start is a project with a possible first pitch from lake level.
enjoy.
Thursday, April 5, 2007
The Abyss
Check out this climbers blog about a recent visit to Wanaka. http://www.dreamtimeimages.com/blog/2007/03/31/new-routing-in-wanaka/
Obviously somewhere we all need to visit & it looks like plenty of room for more quality lines. Excellent exploration by WRC Club member Ben Ayres.
Monday, April 2, 2007
Join The Club
Join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. and help support the maintenance and establishment of rock climbing and conservation throughout the Upper Clutha area.
Send details and $25 to:
WRCC, Inc.
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Attn: Treasurer
Sunday, March 18, 2007
The Neck at Lake Hawea
This is about a 25min drive from Wanaka. Once you reach the windy section of road before The Neck, keep one eye on the rock to your left and the other on the road. 80m past the steep slabs described in the latest guidebook is a bunch of cruisey new routes all developed in the summer of ‘06. Pull into the obvious grassy bay on your left when heading towards the coast, and park at the base of the routes. You will now be directly under the climbs. Accross the road and down the 4WD track is some great swimminf too.
Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn
STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat
THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr
PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr
PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr
Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn
STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat
THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr
PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr
PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr
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