DIY Rock Climbing

Keen on new routing? Here are a few simple tips for the DIY Rock Climber.

1. Be sure access to your new route is easy. This task may require a bit of landscaping like digging a flat platform for belays, trimming trees or cutting tracks.

2. Clean your route. With a good brush, sweep the whole rock surface a meters width on both sides of your selected climbing line. Then, micro clean the hand and foot holds with chalk and a toothbrush. Don't forget to clean extra good all around the holds. A blow tube helps get rid of dust on holds and pockets.

3. Next, top rope your intended line to learn where the bolts should be drilled. A good bolt placement will be easy to clip on lead and the quick draw will sit nicely on the rock without abrasion and without side loading the caribeaners.

4. With all that work complete, drilling the bolts is the easy part. Or is it? Remember the following points when drilling bolts.
- Make sure the rock is good and solid. Avoid flakes, cracks and detached blocks by 200 millimeters.
- Create a flat surface for the bolt hanger to sit against the rock.
- Drill the bolt hole perpendicular to the rock. Check for 90 degree right angles on both the vertical and horizontal planes.
- Over drill the hole so that it can be pounded into the rock and out of site if it is in the wrong place.

Access Issue: Icehouse, Bakehouse, Kai Whaka Pai

Access to all crags on North side of Mt. Aspiring Road to include Icehouse, Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai is through private property. Although the crags themselves are either in recreation reserves or in areas with DOC conservation covenants, the access route to crags is through the farmer's paddock which is private property.

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc., is requesting all climbers to respect the traditional private property rights of the farmer. Access is a privilege, don't stuff it up.

- No Dogs. This is rule #1. There is stock in the paddocks year round.
- During lambing season, stay out of the paddock. See rule #1.
- Always use the public toilet at Main Cliff.
- Stick to the track that contours the edge of the cliffs.
- When in doubt, stay out. The paddock is private property. Respect the farmer's rights when the paddock is filled with animals.

WRCC General Meeting 11 Feb 2008

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
General Meeting
February 11 2008

Attendance: Greg Johnston, Matt Squires, Callum Urquhart, Anna Simmons, John Hammond, Scott Standen, Sean O’Connor, Ben Eyers, Jessica Winter, Ken Super, Jenny Rayment, Anthony Davidson, Jeromy Wilson, Stu Blennerhasset, Dave Cassaidy, Pat Deavoll, Henry

Apologies: Jon Sedon, Ian McNabb, Toby Johnston

General Business:
- New member Stu Blennerhasset of Basecamp discussed discounts for associated members. Also, he offered continued support for the club in the following areas: advocacy, storage locker, gear support (waratahs, stiles, etc.) and fundraising box. He mentioned there would be sport-climbing competitions in the near future.
- Discussed climbing areas that WRCC would support with gear contribution. Cromwell Gorge was approved and recommended to be put into future Wanaka guide. The greater Wye Creek area was discussed and it was decided that it is not in the Wanaka Catchment area and really fits into Wakatipu/Queenstown Climbing Club. Therefore, we discussed the possibilities of a coop situation where we would support their members to put up new routes in Wanaka if they would support our members with similar gear contribution support.
- A top priority issue was discussed concerning climbing areas from Bake House/Family Crag area and to Kai Whaka Pai. Landowner John McRae was invited to speak to our members but did not attend the meeting. John has been recently upset with climbers disregard for farming operations. Two specific examples are dogs in the paddocks with stock present including lambs and climbers arguing with the farmer about their rights to be there because the crags are in the guidebook. It was decided that WRCC must take a proactive stance with the farmer and DOC. The club agreed that we need the following: 1. Stiles placed over fences. It was suggested we might acquire them from DOC. 2. Signage at the area entrance that indicates private property, no dogs allowed, etc. 3. The track through to Kai Whaka Pai should be marked with waratahs. WRCC will need to consult with DOC and farmer related to these issues.
- Discussed putting signs at Mt. Iron climbing areas requesting climbers to avoid loud profanities. John Hammond taking the lead to get the project done.
-Idea to have a select guide that is less expensive.
-Idea to have an Internet guide where people can download a select amount of routes for a certain amount of money.
-Club is pleased new the new DOC toilets at Hospital Flat and Riverside. Thanks to Ian McNabb for fixing up toilet at Roadside.

AGM President/Treasurers Report

Presidents Report:
- The distribution of guides is going well. We have approximately 375 books left out of 1000. We are selling approximately 250 books per year. It is critically important that we get through those books before introducing a new guide so to that we can finance the next printing. We will need to start considering the next guide but at our current rate of sell, it looks like we won’t need the new guide until the summer of 2010.
- Membership is well up from last year due to an amazing effort from Susie Meyer who went out of her way to call, cajole and coerce membership - job well done Susie.
- Jerry Murray-Orr and Simon Middlemass started up the clubs first Web Blog, which seems to be going pretty well. We will need to discuss the future direction of this site.
- Crag activity has been good with a number of members doing some good work to include: new routing, re-bolting projects, crag and track maintenance.
- The club has done a good job keeping up with demand for hardware and the club drill is in good working order.

Treasurers Report:

- Membership went from 18 to 35 members bringing in nearly $1000
- Income was just over $6,000, which included subscriptions, guide and hardware revenue.
- Expenditure was nearly $3000, spent mostly on hardware

Annual General Meeting

The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. AGM for 2006/2007 year is 7:00 PM, Monday 11 February, 2008. The meeting is at the Alberttown Tavern in the conservatory. Subscription for adults is $25, students $15. All Welcome.

New Crag at Poison Creek

As you turn off the SH into the Queensberry Hills Subdivision there is a crag up to your left (behind new house). It is the obvious outcrop with the large overhang and diagonal crack. Park at the first bend in the road, jump the fence into the Doc Land and follow your nose. Easy access to the top of the crag around to the R.

There is currently only 1 completed route and a few anchors but keen to see some more up there. So get up there with your drills.

The rock is general very good and there is potential for up to 10-15 routes probably. We have only touched the right hand wall so far and there are a bunch of obvious line to develope. The less steep rock has a fair bit of lichen but cleans easily.

Groovy Gecko - Grade 19, Start in the middle of the main R hand wall. Up through small ledges on steep ground and into obvious corner. Stem corner to rings. 7b, double ring anchor.

There are anchors on the short but harder face to the R, Project Ed Liddle.

There are some steeper routes for someone strong and the lefthand cave hasnt been touched.
Lots of bouldering in the area below which Jon Seddon has been exploring.

Poison Creek

Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.

D.I.Y.D.N.A 16
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock

To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:

Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.

Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore

PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06

CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arête keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06

SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05

Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.

Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)

Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .

Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.

Waterfall Creek,

New Route half way between the Neck and Makarora right next to the road. combines well with a session at the Hawea slabs.

(untitled) Bolted, Chains at top. Grade 17 (Bryan Moore)

The route follows a prominent water worn arete to the right of the main waterfall from a small ledge. A more direct start is a project with a possible first pitch from lake level.

enjoy.

The Abyss

Check out this climbers blog about a recent visit to Wanaka. http://www.dreamtimeimages.com/blog/2007/03/31/new-routing-in-wanaka/
Obviously somewhere we all need to visit & it looks like plenty of room for more quality lines. Excellent exploration by WRC Club member Ben Ayres.

Join The Club

Join the Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. and help support the maintenance and establishment of rock climbing and conservation throughout the Upper Clutha area.

Send details and $25 to:

WRCC, Inc.
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Attn: Treasurer

The Neck at Lake Hawea

This is about a 25min drive from Wanaka. Once you reach the windy section of road before The Neck, keep one eye on the rock to your left and the other on the road. 80m past the steep slabs described in the latest guidebook is a bunch of cruisey new routes all developed in the summer of ‘06. Pull into the obvious grassy bay on your left when heading towards the coast, and park at the base of the routes. You will now be directly under the climbs. Accross the road and down the 4WD track is some great swimminf too.

Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn

STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat

THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr

PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr

PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr