Keen on new routing? Here are a few simple tips for the DIY Rock Climber.
1. Be sure access to your new route is easy. This task may require a bit of landscaping like digging a flat platform for belays, trimming trees or cutting tracks.
2. Clean your route. With a good brush, sweep the whole rock surface a meters width on both sides of your selected climbing line. Then, micro clean the hand and foot holds with chalk and a toothbrush. Don't forget to clean extra good all around the holds. A blow tube helps get rid of dust on holds and pockets.
3. Next, top rope your intended line to learn where the bolts should be drilled. A good bolt placement will be easy to clip on lead and the quick draw will sit nicely on the rock without abrasion and without side loading the caribeaners.
4. With all that work complete, drilling the bolts is the easy part. Or is it? Remember the following points when drilling bolts.
- Make sure the rock is good and solid. Avoid flakes, cracks and detached blocks by 200 millimeters.
- Create a flat surface for the bolt hanger to sit against the rock.
- Drill the bolt hole perpendicular to the rock. Check for 90 degree right angles on both the vertical and horizontal planes.
- Over drill the hole so that it can be pounded into the rock and out of site if it is in the wrong place.
