Wanaka Rock Climbing Club Inc and
Department of Conservation, Wanaka Area Office Meeting
18th March 2008
MINUTES
In Attendance:
Wanaka Rock Club - Greg Johnston, Guy Cotter, Nick Craddock, Glenn Einam and Jessica Eyers, DOC - Paul Hellebrekers and Annette Smith.
Pre-meeting
The department accepts the written submission from Wanaka Rock Climbing Club and will address the contents in the agenda. The department acknowledges that rock climbing is an established and legitimate recreational pursuit in the area.
1. Welcome & previous minutes – no issues raised.
2. Matukituki Operation Plan -
Paul gave the group an overview of the new operational plan which represents the Otago Conservancy policy guide for staff undertaking management decisions in relation to Ngai Tahu values within the Hospital Flat & Diamond Lake Conservation Areas. The group was given part copy of the plan specific to rock climbing activity and the implications to the club were discussed. It was noted that an issue should only occur if a burial or other culturally significant feature is found.
Action: Annette to forward Greg full copy of Matukituki Operational Plan.
3. The establishment of new Climbing Sites
The group agreed that the definition of a ‘new climbing site’ was covered adequately in the minutes from the Oct 2005 meeting, that being:
‘A new site was seen as place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that’s between 2 existing routes (within a reasonable/practical distance) was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.’
The process to obtain approval for new sites was discussed. Initially, the club is to write to DOC, by letter or email, giving location and details of proposal. Paul outlined his responsibilities in regards to then inspecting the site and consulting with Ngai Tahu before a decision can be made. It is anticipated that the process will be relatively straightforward unless there are significant conservation and/or culture values in the specific area/site.
It was acknowledge that the club has limited control in enforcing this process on non-members.
Action: Annette to provide overview map showing main rocking climbing areas.
Action: Greg to mark existing crags/ routes and proposed crags on maps provided and return to DOC by 18th April 2009.
Action: Paul to advise NZAC of the process for establishing new rocking climbing sites.
Action: The club is to ensure that the new Wanaka Rock guide book explains process and that map showing boundaries of conservation lands used for rock climbing is included. Doc to provide detail for the new book as required.
4. Access Paths – marking and maintenance.
Paul asked that entrance to rock climbing areas off the Diamond Lake track not be emphasized - Simple rock cairns to be used rather than signage unless issues arise. The department could provide markers and signage to assist the club in marking main entrance points and site access track within the Hospital Flat Conservation Area.
Paul requested that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites.
Action: Paul to arrange meeting with club members to assess placement of track markers and track maintenance requirements. (Confirmed for 30th March @ 9am)
5. Bolting standards
Bolting guidelines from NZAC and draft Mt Cook/ Westland National Parks policy were tabled.
Greg showed examples of galvanized and stainless steel bolts used in the local rock climbing areas. He stated that bolting by club members was to a high standard and that they were pro-active in replacing the older style bolts. The club is working under the umbrella of the NZAC bolting guidelines although specific to the rock type in this area.
All parties agreed that the NZAC Bolting Policy of 2005 still applies.
Guy raised the point that educational institutes and non-members using the facilities provided by the club did not contribute financially.
6. Dogs in rock climbing areas
Annette stated that dogs were permitted on Hospital Flat, Mt Iron, Roadside and Riverside conservation lands. However, dogs were not permitted in Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The Club to raise the issue of dogs in the Hospital Flat area with their members to establish whether is it suitable to have dogs on site while climbing.
Action: Paul to arrange DOC No Dog sign on the eastern boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
7. Fencing of Eastern Boundary of Diamond Lake Conservation Area.
The boundary line was discussed with members as there were concerns that they were encroaching on private property to reach some of the rock climbing sites.
Action: Paul to check surveyed peg line and contact John McRae regarding dogs and public access across the paddock. Paul to report findings back to club.
8. DOC’s 2009/10 proposed work programme
Paul advised the group that a circuit track around Diamond Lake was to be developed this winter. No other works planned near the rock climbing areas.
9. Establishment of new climbing resources in Mt Iron Scenic Reserve
The club expressed an interest to further develop rock climbing within the Mt Iron Scenic Reserve. Paul stated that DOC’s view had not changed in regards to Mt Iron crags being extended to above the walking track on the eastern side. The current rock climbing crags below the track had some minor issues, ie impact on local residents, however rock climbing to be continued. Mt Iron’s main focus of activity is the 60,000 plus walkers using the area. Guy felt that additional sites should be addressed as the current limited area does not attract climbers. Nick commented that the loose rock on Mt Iron could be an issue.
Group agreed to park this issue until matters in other rock climbing areas have been addressed.
Action: Paul to erect a sign on the walking track above the rock climbing area advising the public not to throw rocks over the edge.
10. General items
Pest Control – Glenn commented that possum numbers had increased substantially in the rock climbing areas. Paul advised that no pest control programmes planned for these areas.
Motatapu River 4WD – Paul advised group that he had received feedback that rock climbers were accessing rock climbing areas – Lost World/ Dummyside – by 4WD through private property from the Motatapu River. Group stated that this was a low use area by members.
Camping – Freedom camping near rock climbing areas – especially Riverside – has continued to be an issue. Paul advised group that adjoining landowners were very concerned due to the fire risk. Members to be mindful and move campers on if sighted.
Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) - Club to consider MOU with DOC for clear guidelines to be established.
Action: Club to advise by 18 April 2009 if they require a draft to be drawn up to consider.
