WRCC AGM 9 Dec 08

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc
AGM 2008
9th Dec 2008

Attendance: Greg Johnston, Jerry Murray-Orr, Ken Super, Murray Ball, Scott Standen, Rich Tribe, Ben Eyers, Jessica Eyers, Russell Braddock, Jon Sedon, Bruce Dowrick. Svenja Stellfeld

Apologies: John Hammond, Ian McNab, Shawn & Nia O'Connor,

Minutes from last AGM: Minutes of ’07 AGM were vaporized and therefore not read and approved but financials were ratified.

Elections: John Hammond resigned as treasurer, Greg Johnston to carry on as President, Jessica E to carry on as secretary, Ken elected to be treasurer.

Treasurer's report:

Financial report is for Oct 2007 – Sept 2008. Given out guide books to Good Sports and Mainly Tramping but still in receivables. (acc receivable about $5000). Mainly Tramping returned 60 guide books as they are selling to slowly. $625 in subs for 2007-2008 (24 members) $1300 in guidebooks. Bolt fund: more than $1000. Gross imcome $3000. $4000 in expenses – Alpine Club and Outsider for gear (hardware), and some costs associated with last year's AGM. Still lots of 12mm bolts – should be mainly used for rebolting the Cutting. Current assets = $2000 in bank, $5000 in guidebooks, hardware $800.

Old business:

Last year's general meeting minutes read and approved.

Approximately 320 guidebooks in stock including returns. Jerry mentioned Elements might need more guidebooks.

All agreed to reduce the guide from $20 to $15. All new members may have a free guidebook. It is the time to shift books this summer. Possible to further reduce guide to cost or below. We will aim to get the highest margin possible to sell all books.

Rich suggested selling on trademe. Go on then Rich.

Access:

Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai Areas - signage in place and track marked. Jerry will install stiles.

Highside area loop track is marked but needs additional maintenance.

All crag trail heads are marked.

A number of climbers are taking dogs into Kai Pai area. Dogs are not allowed in this area because it is farm land. Signs are clearly posted. Please do not jeopardize climbing access by bringing your dog/s into this area. Dogs are allowed in DOC recreation reserves but they are not allowed in DOC conservation reserves (Diamond Lake).

Greg suggested that John McRae, DOC and club discuss fencing between private property and DOC property.

Jerry will ask DOC to write the club a letter regarding their position on fencing off the area. Svenja had previously offered to facilitate raising trust and lottery money for this purpose. Could be funding from Central Lakes Trust for this (conservation).

New business:

Scott Standen volunteered to produce the new guide book. He will send out a proposed layout by Janurary 31 st. Jerry will provide Scott with data from old book.

It is agreed the new guide should be printed by the beginning of October. Scott and Anna are keen.

Bruce to research various printing options

Book Ideas:
 Need clearer pictures with clearer better topo lines.
 Icons to describe climbing cliffs (sun/shade, summer/winter, bolts/natural, etc.)
 Need feedback on stars, grades, etc.
 Consolidate and condesnse some areas
 Loads of advertising – good to help pay for guide, needs extra space in book. Murray is keen to help
 Need more good climbing shots – All to try to take and send in photos
 Needs to be stitched and bound – Bruce to research options
 Queenstown guidebook and Alpine club guidebook are good examples. $40 is ok but max.
 Add Tombstone area to bouldering section.
 Examples of good guides – rock fax, blue mountains, boulder

Other new business:

Working bee at Cutting – Saturday 31, January. Meeting, eating and drinking afterwards.

Greg Johnston and Glen Einam are project managers.

Tasks to be completed:
- Replace and/or Fix up Anchors
- Remove existing dyna-bolts, over drill same hole and re-place with 12mm stainless bolts and hangers
-Extend track from Cutting to Falcon Steep
-Add D12 Staples to access areas


The new bolts on Critic’s Choice were chopped, again, by Allen Uren and company. The original route was very, very dirty and rarely climbed. It was certainly not the gem it is today. Additionally, the anchor was very low on the route at about ¼ height of the cliff leaving nearly 75% more cliff and new climbing above the old route. Some feel Allen should spend his time properly cleaning his own routes in the crack house. The group vigorously debated the subject and came to a general consensus that it should be left as a natural line because it is a crack and more bolting followed by more chopping will only make the conservation of rock more difficult

Svenja to chase previous and new members for subs.

Paid Subs:

Ken Super
Jerry Murray-Orr
Greg Johnston
Anna Simmonds
Scott Standon
Bruce Dowrick
Svenja
Russell
Jon Sedon
Ben Eyers
Jessica Eyers

Annual General Meeting 2008

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
Annual General Meeting
Tuesday 9 December, 2008 6:30 pm
Alberttown Tavern Meeting Room

Subs: $15 Students, $25 Adults - Members can buy a climbing guide from the club for an additional $20

A general meeting will follow the AGM to discuss outdoor climbing management, resource conservation and the proposed new guidebook.

DIY Rock Climbing

Keen on new routing? Here are a few simple tips for the DIY Rock Climber.

1. Be sure access to your new route is easy. This task may require a bit of landscaping like digging a flat platform for belays, trimming trees or cutting tracks.

2. Clean your route. With a good brush, sweep the whole rock surface a meters width on both sides of your selected climbing line. Then, micro clean the hand and foot holds with chalk and a toothbrush. Don't forget to clean extra good all around the holds. A blow tube helps get rid of dust on holds and pockets.

3. Next, top rope your intended line to learn where the bolts should be drilled. A good bolt placement will be easy to clip on lead and the quick draw will sit nicely on the rock without abrasion and without side loading the caribeaners.

4. With all that work complete, drilling the bolts is the easy part. Or is it? Remember the following points when drilling bolts.
- Make sure the rock is good and solid. Avoid flakes, cracks and detached blocks by 200 millimeters.
- Create a flat surface for the bolt hanger to sit against the rock.
- Drill the bolt hole perpendicular to the rock. Check for 90 degree right angles on both the vertical and horizontal planes.
- Over drill the hole so that it can be pounded into the rock and out of site if it is in the wrong place.

Access Issue: Icehouse, Bakehouse, Kai Whaka Pai

Access to all crags on North side of Mt. Aspiring Road to include Icehouse, Bakehouse and Kai Whaka Pai is through private property. Although the crags themselves are either in recreation reserves or in areas with DOC conservation covenants, the access route to crags is through the farmer's paddock which is private property.

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc., is requesting all climbers to respect the traditional private property rights of the farmer. Access is a privilege, don't stuff it up.

- No Dogs. This is rule #1. There is stock in the paddocks year round.
- During lambing season, stay out of the paddock. See rule #1.
- Always use the public toilet at Main Cliff.
- Stick to the track that contours the edge of the cliffs.
- When in doubt, stay out. The paddock is private property. Respect the farmer's rights when the paddock is filled with animals.

WRCC General Meeting 11 Feb 2008

Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc.
General Meeting
February 11 2008

Attendance: Greg Johnston, Matt Squires, Callum Urquhart, Anna Simmons, John Hammond, Scott Standen, Sean O’Connor, Ben Eyers, Jessica Winter, Ken Super, Jenny Rayment, Anthony Davidson, Jeromy Wilson, Stu Blennerhasset, Dave Cassaidy, Pat Deavoll, Henry

Apologies: Jon Sedon, Ian McNabb, Toby Johnston

General Business:
- New member Stu Blennerhasset of Basecamp discussed discounts for associated members. Also, he offered continued support for the club in the following areas: advocacy, storage locker, gear support (waratahs, stiles, etc.) and fundraising box. He mentioned there would be sport-climbing competitions in the near future.
- Discussed climbing areas that WRCC would support with gear contribution. Cromwell Gorge was approved and recommended to be put into future Wanaka guide. The greater Wye Creek area was discussed and it was decided that it is not in the Wanaka Catchment area and really fits into Wakatipu/Queenstown Climbing Club. Therefore, we discussed the possibilities of a coop situation where we would support their members to put up new routes in Wanaka if they would support our members with similar gear contribution support.
- A top priority issue was discussed concerning climbing areas from Bake House/Family Crag area and to Kai Whaka Pai. Landowner John McRae was invited to speak to our members but did not attend the meeting. John has been recently upset with climbers disregard for farming operations. Two specific examples are dogs in the paddocks with stock present including lambs and climbers arguing with the farmer about their rights to be there because the crags are in the guidebook. It was decided that WRCC must take a proactive stance with the farmer and DOC. The club agreed that we need the following: 1. Stiles placed over fences. It was suggested we might acquire them from DOC. 2. Signage at the area entrance that indicates private property, no dogs allowed, etc. 3. The track through to Kai Whaka Pai should be marked with waratahs. WRCC will need to consult with DOC and farmer related to these issues.
- Discussed putting signs at Mt. Iron climbing areas requesting climbers to avoid loud profanities. John Hammond taking the lead to get the project done.
-Idea to have a select guide that is less expensive.
-Idea to have an Internet guide where people can download a select amount of routes for a certain amount of money.
-Club is pleased new the new DOC toilets at Hospital Flat and Riverside. Thanks to Ian McNabb for fixing up toilet at Roadside.

AGM President/Treasurers Report

Presidents Report:
- The distribution of guides is going well. We have approximately 375 books left out of 1000. We are selling approximately 250 books per year. It is critically important that we get through those books before introducing a new guide so to that we can finance the next printing. We will need to start considering the next guide but at our current rate of sell, it looks like we won’t need the new guide until the summer of 2010.
- Membership is well up from last year due to an amazing effort from Susie Meyer who went out of her way to call, cajole and coerce membership - job well done Susie.
- Jerry Murray-Orr and Simon Middlemass started up the clubs first Web Blog, which seems to be going pretty well. We will need to discuss the future direction of this site.
- Crag activity has been good with a number of members doing some good work to include: new routing, re-bolting projects, crag and track maintenance.
- The club has done a good job keeping up with demand for hardware and the club drill is in good working order.

Treasurers Report:

- Membership went from 18 to 35 members bringing in nearly $1000
- Income was just over $6,000, which included subscriptions, guide and hardware revenue.
- Expenditure was nearly $3000, spent mostly on hardware

Annual General Meeting

The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club, Inc. AGM for 2006/2007 year is 7:00 PM, Monday 11 February, 2008. The meeting is at the Alberttown Tavern in the conservatory. Subscription for adults is $25, students $15. All Welcome.