This is about a 25min drive from Wanaka. Once you reach the windy section of road before The Neck, keep one eye on the rock to your left and the other on the road. 80m past the steep slabs described in the latest guidebook is a bunch of cruisey new routes all developed in the summer of ‘06. Pull into the obvious grassy bay on your left when heading towards the coast, and park at the base of the routes. You will now be directly under the climbs. Accross the road and down the 4WD track is some great swimminf too.
Climbs from R to L:
RUBBER NECKING 13
A short route on the far R of the crag. The routes here create a lot of attention from passersby. 3B DBA. Dave Winterburn
STEVE’S ONE 14
A nice climb with some high steps and rock fins. 4B DBA. Steve Moffat
THE GREAT KIWI JANDAL BLOWOUT 16 *
Starts up the steep wall, over the block and onto the slab above. Finishes at the chains of PC Gone Mad. 5B DBA. Climbers beware when ascending in Jandals. Dave Winterburn, Jerry Murray-Orr
PC GONE MAD 15 *
Easy terrain to the first clip then delicate edging and smears up the long slab to chains. 4B DBA. Please leave your political correctness in the car. Jerry Murray-Orr
PROJECT At the far left of this wall. A few bolts and biners. Am waiting until the lake warms up before finishing this one. Jerry Murray-Orr
5 comments:
I thought unknown was probably 17 definately harder than glen's corner anyway
To the left of shes a little goer at hangover is Super elastic Bubble Plastic. 4 bolts and shares the chains of SALG. surprisingly sustained climbing on crimps and good pockets. goes at 22**.
Oops. Forgot to say that the first assensionists for super elastic were Scott Standen and David Bunn, April 06
some awesome easier routes in this batch.
The cardinal and russ's gulley combined, I think make for the most 'atmostpheric' 15s in wanaka.
On supprisingly good rock also. The 2nd pitch is a classic for the grade.
News Flash - One of the top anchor bolts on the route "Beyond Infinity 16" on the old slab routes at The Neck, Lake Hawea is very loose! In fact, it actually comes clean out of its hole when pulled. So if anyone is heading out there anytime soon, take the club drill and replace the top bolt. Otherwise take care on it and do not tope-rope!
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