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Thursday, April 5, 2007

The Abyss



Check out this climbers blog about a recent visit to Wanaka. http://www.dreamtimeimages.com/blog/2007/03/31/new-routing-in-wanaka/
Obviously somewhere we all need to visit & it looks like plenty of room for more quality lines. Excellent exploration by WRC Club member Ben Ayres.

11 comments:

cragrat said...

Are you going to tell people how to find it? The 45min wander up the hill etc - a few people are interested

Anonymous said...

its EYERS

ben said...

park at diamond lake carpark, through gate about 100m along road on left towards riverside.
45 mins walk up back of glendhu hill along 4wd track, follow the fence line near top through small bluffs up a bit more then veer leftish, abyss is on a small flat south about 100m beyond end of fence...

access issues? - WRCC???? who asks the land owner?

Anonymous said...

Looks awesome, are there other routes in there yet. There appears to be an awesome lightning bolt crack in there, which will probably be bolted in true Wanaka style.

Looks worthy of a slackline also!!

Anonymous said...

Has access been granted to this area and beyond for those wishing to explore? I have walked up there via hospital flat beyond the whale watching wall before and looked across the range towards Shania's place from the saddle. Don't want to ruin any possible future access. What's the word WRCC?

qksmith said...

those photos are very good.
i look forward to getting up there this summer for a look.

Anonymous said...

Access discription ok. Best way is to walk up to sunnyside go above cliff on lookers right (the riverside) & then follow fence as in access description the whole way.
More like 1hr.
Arrete is good looking rte, maybe 15-20m long, max.
Whether or not best sport rte in Wanaka/NZ is up for debate.............rte should maybe be called "blowing my own trumpet".

Unknown said...

its a nice place alright, we did some exploring here years ago.. mid nineties... and bagged it cause of the long walk, beeter and more extensive areas closer to the road, should be a few old bolts, tat and ropes here and there, you can get into the chasm (and out) without ropes
there are a few lines to go at but it is a long way
ed n

qksmith said...

Hey guys, i flew over there in my paraglider last week and the access looks way shorter and easier from the Mototapu gorge road. Presuming i am looking at the right gorge. If not there is another awesome looking gorge at the southern end of Glendhu Hill.

Also any Beta on the crag above Glendhu Bay on Mt Roy. There are a number of ropes there and the walls look awesome.

The future looks bright for scouting crags from the Air.

Anonymous said...

yer theres about 3 complete routs there, stefan and i put up 2 last year. the buena vista tea rooms - cos it was a bit wussy really.
"lady grey" on left, rock up over small overhang then up through crack to short face 3B 16/17 Ben Eyers and
"swartzwalde kirschtote mit chocolade" tricky start over bulge then thin to jugs and glory 19 3B Sole Brother
both to same DBA
3rd on main wall to the left
great face climbing 20ish DBA

Also re paragliders mention of other crag up glendu hill there's a route there also done last summer.. on big crag to left visible from riverside on far right of wall near top of mini scree slope

"Richards Dozen" starting on a bit of a ledge. fun face climbing reminiscent of FFF through a couple of intersting ledge/corners
best done on a 30m rope 19? 12B DBA Ben Eyers... take a picnic
PLENTY MORE to do if you can be bothered with the walk

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