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Sunday, September 23, 2007
Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05
SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05
PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock
To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:
Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.
Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore
PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06
CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arête keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06
SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05
Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.
Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)
Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .
Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.
Posted by qksmith