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Sunday, September 23, 2007

Poison Creek


Poison Creek is on the Luggate-Cromwell Highway, near Queensberry. 8kms past Luggate turn right into the flash new Queensberry Hills subdivision, follow the road around to beneath the obvious large crag. Park here and look for the cairns to gain the various tracks. The Lefthand side of the main wall has the following routes from L to R.

D.I.Y.D.N.A 16
At the far L of the main crag is a neat route following 45° ledges on sound rock. Start up the belay gully beyond the large Manuka tree. 4B Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

SCOTTISH ANGST 18
The first route on the wall and we copped some wrath from the unofficial Mayor of Queensberry. Start R of Manuka tree. Takes edgy line through bulge into easier ground to DBA. 5B. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘05

PROJECT Russell Braddock
PROJECT Russell Braddock

To access the right hand wall either climb "Scimitar"wall or look for the large boulder below the crag and to the R of this is the start of the bush track, which gives access to routes on the middle slab and walls above. Routes described from L to R:

Scimitar, 20m Grade 13 (Kat West)
Great beginners route and and ideal first lead. At the far right of the main wall follow bolts up slabby corner pull over arete and continue up slab and left corner to a large cave. 7 bolts, chains at belay. Abeil off, Watch for your rope on the sharp arete. Also good for linking the R and L areas of the crag. Second pitch was also climbed by Bryan Moore through steeper ground on natural gear to chains of below, short but sweet.

Project (open), To the right of scimitar, follows easy slab to very grunty roof, follows seam through roof. most of the good holds fell off but will go to strong contender. Abandoned by Bryan Moore

PARENTAL GUIDANCE 16
Starts on the slab L of CM. Delicately wander to the undercling and obvious block then over steeper ground to the belay. The pitch above this is a project. Jerry Murray-Orr ’06

CARDINAL MOVEMENTS 15
From the toe of the obvious slab climb the line just left of arĂȘte keeping to the slab. Then through steeper broken ground to finish under small roof. From here it is possible to climb Russ’s Gully to top of wall. Jerry Murray-Orr ‘06

SCOTTY'S PIGEONS 15
Either climbed as 2nd pitch to above route or accessed by heading R and scrambling loose ground from base of wall. Climb the gully slabs to slight overhang near top. Pull through to top of cliff and chains to R. Russell Braddock ‘05

Another new route at poison creek. located on separate block to the left of the main wall. Enter from directly below crag throught the scrub. Track marked by cairne on large rock.

Another searing hyperclassic Grade 19 *
Starts in main corner and steps right accross balancy move between 2nd and 3rd bolt to gain arete. Easier ground (18) to steeper finish and ring bolts. (Quentin Smith and Ed Liddle, 07)

Welcome feedback in the grade as it has an unusual but excellent crux. could be 18 or could be 20 .

Route to left directly up corner and over roof is a project.


12 comments:

qksmith said...

Does anyone know anything about the 2 fixed ropes (between the 3rd and 4th route from left on topo).

I think they have been there for some time.

Anonymous said...

The two fixed ropes are Russell Braddocks and he'd like them left as he's thinking of trying to do the routes without oxygen in a day without sherpa support.

Anonymous said...

Climbed Scimitar (I think) recently and pulled a large very loose block off the top of it. It was just sitting there. It is hard to get every bit of loose rock but something so obvious should have been cleaned off by the new router.

And what is the idea behind expensive stainless hangars at belays (as is the case at the top of this route). You can't abseil off them and it's a waste of money. What is wrong with good old galvo chain?

Anonymous said...

The lower-offs on Scimitar were changed to rings today.

Heidi M said...

Lost your rope bag? Found one under some trees here on 7 Nov. Let me know if it's yours...

RB said...

Russell finally got round to completing the routes where the 2 ropes were hanging on the left hand wall. Described L to R from the route 'Scotish Angst"
- "2nd Edition" a grade 18 variation which joins Fist edition 1/3 up wall.
- "First Edition" grade 16 up grey then brown rock to top out through overlap 22 meters. Has a direct start off ground or use right tending ramp to avoid first 2 bolts
- " Scourcher" gr 16, balancy climbing starting off from the next right tending ramp. Finishes at base of flared corner just below overlap, DBA, 18 meters. Fixed rope in place above as direct finish yet to be completed
- "Alex's route" gr 18. Start as for Scourcher and straight up to corner at the right of top overlap. Mainly grade 15 with 18 finish. Step right at top then back into corner opposite chains,20 meters, direct start yet to be completed.

Bungo said...

I have fixed the top chains of DIYDNA (ring bolt & chain) and also Cardinal Movements (2 ring bolts). Have also removed the old tat from the high slab of Scotty's Pigeons.

PROJECT Extension of Parental Guidance up steeper mid-wall to the highest point of the crag!

Anonymous said...

Any chance someone could update the topo with the new routes.

PhilG said...

Great sunny spot on a cool autumn day - 2nd edition seemed the only anomaly and felt more like a grade16 than an 18.

Alison said...

Spent a pleasant spring afternoon here - there is a nice selection of easier routes so my thanks to the hard-working first ascensionists. My 2 cents on gradings: DIYDNA (16) felt much easier than either Cardinal Movements (15) or Parental Guidance (16). Actually CM and PG felt very difficult for the grades, but that may just be my rusty climbing.

Anonymous said...

All the Cracks were climbed (clean) by Crusty et el years ago.

Anonymous said...

Russell finally finished off Scorcher through top flared corner and now goes at 22/23 and fixed rope that was in place has been removed.
Direct start (15) added to "Alex's Route" 3 Bolts - it is the route directly in front of you where the track meets the cliff